How luxury beauty brands are using flowers in their skincare lines

Although flowers have featured in beauty potions since time immemorial, modern science continues to isolate and harness their most powerful properties. Here are the latest advances in skincare research on our favorite flowers, report Nafeesa Saini and Yanni Tan.

Chanel: The Camellia

One hundred years have passed since Chanel No. 5 was created and in that time the house has gained a reputation for harnessing the crème de la crème of flowers for its skin care. Her latest successful beauty collection – the n°1 De Chanel – is further proof of this. At the heart of the range, the camellia, the brand’s emblematic flower and Gabrielle Chanel’s favorite flower.

Since 1998, Chanel has cultivated the flower in open-air laboratories in the village of Gaujacq in southwestern France. Camellias are grown in the ground using farming practices that put minimal pressure on the environment. The project is a collaboration with camellia expert Jean Thoby, whose botanical conservatory garden is home to the two mother plants of Camellia Japonica Alba Plena.

Chanel research has revealed the benefits of red camellia extract from the “Czar” species of Camellia Japonica. The odorless flower has an enduring quality demonstrated by petals that are unaffected by water or cold. Hand-picked in full turgidity, they contain protocatechuic acid, a powerful and nutritious molecule never before seen in previously analyzed camellias.

Specifically, this species shows a remarkable ability to support skin vitality, and this attribute has been translated into the No.1 De Chanel range which addresses the first stage of skin aging. Rich in antioxidants, it rejuvenates the skin and preserves its youth.

The formulas in the collection contain up to 97% natural and renewable ingredients, 75% of which are derived from camellia. To reduce waste, different parts of the plant are incorporated into the formula and packaging. The extract is used for its regenerating properties while camellia water acts as a soothing aid. The oil, obtained by pressing the seeds, maintains the hydration of the complexion, while the shells of the seeds are used in the packaging of the Revitalizing Cream.

The range includes nine products, including the new Powder-To-Foam cleanser which becomes creamy on contact with water. Other skincare products include a pore-tightening lotion, revitalizing serum, smoothing cream, and accompanying eye cream to target dark circles and puffiness.

As for makeup, red camellia oil is infused into the moisturizing foundation and lip and cheek balm. Léau Rouge Revitalizing Fragrance Mist keeps skin feeling fresh all day while working like a perfume. Camellia is odorless, but its scent is reimagined as a floral bouquet of jasmine, orange blossom and rose.

Guerlain: The Orchid

A cult beauty elixir for more than 15 years, the luxurious Crème Orchidée Impériale by Guerlain is synonymous with the most advanced research on orchids. Endowed with an extraordinary longevity, these flowers offer numerous and powerful anti-aging cosmetic properties. Guerlain’s latest Orchidarium R&D has unlocked the secret of infinite longevity – found in the deepest roots of an extraordinary duo of orchids chosen from over 30,000 species.

The first is Gastrodia Elata, which is a legendary herb used in traditional Chinese medicine and grown in the mountainous regions of Yunnan and parts of China. In addition to its exceptional regenerating properties, a valuable fraction extracted from its roots is found to immediately combat the lack of cellular oxygen and have a protective effect on skin cells. The second is the Dendrobium Fimbriatum, which lives on the surface of tree trunks or branches, and has an extraordinary ability to survive. Its incredible aerial roots, in particular, synthesize a wide variety of molecules.

Guerlain Imperial Orchid Cream

The regenerative power of the roots of the two orchids is now concentrated in the cutting-edge Orchid Totum technology. Comprised of a wide variety of molecules, this molecular extract helps regulate cellular respiration, combat hypoxia and, for the first time, targets a longevity enzyme, PHD3, capable of radically reversing the visible signs of aging . The discovery of the enzyme is the result of Guerlain’s collaboration with the prestigious Swiss Federal Institute of Technology in Zurich.

In addition to Totum Orchidée, this 2022 reissue of Guerlain Orchidée Impériale Cream also offers an exceptional sensory sensation infused in a formula composed of 96% ingredients of natural origin. Ultra-fine, soft and emollient, rich and plumping, the cream provides all-day hydration. After seven days of use, study subjects between the ages of 18 and 72 were found to have skin that looked three years younger, based on comparison of dermis density using approximately 6,000 skin ultrasounds. Clinical evaluation by dermatologists has also reported a marked improvement in the visible signs of aging, ranging from renewed radiance to reduced wrinkles to increased hydration.

Designed like a precious jewel in its case, the jar of the new Crème Orchidée Impériale has been carefully designed to minimize its environmental impact: It is refillable, recyclable, and made of 40% recycled glass and 100% recycled plastic. Its weight and volume have also been reduced to reduce its carbon footprint. The cream is also complemented by the Micro-Lift Concentrate, and the Eye and Lip Contour Cream.

Dior: The Longoza

The secret of Dior’s Capture Totale range is the longoza flower, grown in the garden of the house in the heart of the Indian Ocean. The island country of Madagascar is home to a biodiversity-rich ecosystem that boasts 13,500 endemic flowers, 75% of which cannot grow anywhere else.

In the Ranomafana area, in the rainforest, there is a garden dedicated to Dior, which combines traditional manual harvesting with a rigorous extraction method. For 30 years, the house has been studying the mythical longoza. The scarlet flower, which means “eternal” in Malagasy, never dies and grows back when cut, earning it its nickname “Phoenix flower”.

The longoza is able to regenerate in the most uncompromising environments. As an extract in skincare, it offers a powerful regenerative quality in the face of cellular fatigue – a condition where cells struggle to renew themselves and absorb nutrients, and the complexion becomes vulnerable to the visible signs of aging. aging. The extract supports the skin’s mother cells by rebalancing them with powerful nutrients to restore radiance to the complexion.

Total capture range

This year, after five years of research, Dior unveils its revolutionary development of the Longoza-Ferment Blend, a first in the Capture Totale range. The biotech solution is created through a 10-step flash multi-fermentation process, during which the flower is brought into contact with 10 ferments for 10 days. In their natural state, longoza seeds contain 50 active molecules. This innovation maximizes their active molecular content, triggering optimal efficacy and absorption capacity by the skin.

The new Capture Totale Intensive Essence Lotion contains a 75% infusion of this powerful blend. This high concentration helps skin cells achieve the pillars of skin quality including clarity, hydration and strength. With daily application in the morning, skin is reset for the day. Plumping and radiance are restored, while signs of fatigue and stress are visibly reduced.

The lotion is also infused with a duo of high and low molecular weight hyaluronic acids. Together, they hydrate the skin deep down and on the surface. Lightweight with an ultra-fresh, fast-absorbing texture, best applied before Capture Totale Super Potent Serum for a powerful couple that smoothes wrinkles and firms skin.

Beauty Skin Key: The rose

Inspired by detoxifying spa treatments and backed by cutting-edge science, Clé de Peau Beauté’s Synactif collection was launched in 2004 and sits at the top of the luxury Japanese beauty brand’s offerings. It targets the skin’s natural impurity removal processes and supports the skin’s self-beautifying system for youthful, radiant, sculpted beauty.

A complete and holistic regimen, Synactif offers a combination of efficacy and experience – and the latter is partly endowed with a key ingredient: Synactif Rose. Cultivated by the famous French nursery Delbard, it was first commissioned in search of a fragrance that would embody the relaxing, harmonious and purifying qualities of the Synactif line.

The result was so perfect that the rose won the prize for best perfume at the Bagatelle International Rose Competition. In fact, the fragrance is inspired by the moment when the flower blooms, releasing its precious scent for just a few hours on May mornings. It was then incorporated into each step of the Synactif regimen to provide the ultimate sensory experience.

The Synactif range

Last year, Clé de Peau reformulated the range by adding new ingredients, but the objective of the Synactif routine remains the same: to improve the tone, texture and contours of the skin by targeting the lymphatic capillaries of the skin. . Lymphatic capillaries, which function as a drain, run throughout the body to collect fluids and impurities that cannot be evacuated through the veins. And recent research at Clé De Peau’s lab has revealed that our lymphatic capillaries lose their ability to purge toxins from our bodies as they degenerate and change with age.

To stop this process, Clé de Peau has infused its Synactif range with a new Purifying Beautifer, an innovative complex based on extracts of white mulberry bark, lamium album leaf and cinnamomum cassia bark to prevent loss of lymph capillaries while repairing damaged ones.

The Purifying Beautifier is featured throughout the Synactif six-step routine, which includes Soap, Lotion, Day Moisturizer, Night Moisturizer, Cream, and Eye Cream. The new formulation of the lotion also contains rose extract to attract and retain moisture, as well as intensive brightening ingredients – the total effects of which give the skin a rosy glow, improved clarity, improved tone and texture and more resilience.

(Main and featured image: Camila Bustamante)

This story first appeared in the March 2022 issue of Prestige Singapore.

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